![]() On top of that, I’ve found the 3.5L requires some adjustment of the WOT fuel params to truly squeeze out what little perf gains might be available. I have to feed mine top tier branded gas or I get some ST KR, and even with that, I’ve found the 93 octane version (or 89 plus some octane boost w/MTBE) is required to keep the KR out of my datalogs. The 89 and 91 octane tunes are fine for the 3.5L, with the 91 being the best if the gasoline is good quality and has plenty of octane. Not sure what it doesn’t like in that tune, but there’s something about it the 3.5L dislikes (as opposed to the 3.6L Pentastar which loves it IME!). I have never been able to get a 3.5L to handle the 93 octane canned tune from DiabloSport very well. And for $300 in parts and labor I now have a car that puts a smile on my face when I listen to it running, as opposed to before when it was whisper quiet and couldn’t hardly be heard even at WOT. In my case I replaced the OE suitcase muffler and single rear pipe w/ reso with a single si/do JFB muffler and two new pipes running out the back (plus tips like what the 2011+ models came with from the factory). IMHO, the whisper quiet exhaust needs to be replaced ASAP, as giving the car a nice audio profile at idle and WOT goes a looong way toward making up for the other areas the car is lacking in (acceleration, etc.) It doesn’t need to be fancy or even done with the intent of increasing performance (e.g. Oh yeah, and no matter what else you do, you need to put an exhaust upgrade on the list of mods to do. I know it certainly was for me on my 2010 Challenger w/ the 3.5L. Surely that sort of thing is worth the $75-125 that an old used Predator would cost. You still won’t win any drag races, but you shouldn’t be entering into any of those anyway in a late 2000’s Dodge LX powered by a V6, for all the reasons already listed.īut you will have a car that is more responsive, slightly quicker, and more importantly, a good deal more fun to drive. ![]() However, if you choose the right canned tune (91 seems to beat the rest oddly enough), adjust the WOT fuel params to eliminate KR at WOT, and feed it a steady diet of high quality premium gasoline (93 octane top tier), then you can significantly improve the driving experience of the car. Throw in the MPG-tastic rear gears, and you’ve got yourself a potentially disappointing situation when adding perf mods like a canned tune. The car weighs 4K lbs and the engine is light on torque. It’s all about having realistic expectations. Will it make a difference? Sure, just don’t expect miracles. The fact that it will allow you to load (and slightly modify) the hotter canned tunes would definitely be worth it though. It will be used obviously, and so the price should be $100 or less, which would be worth it just for the code reading/resetting and tire size adjustment abilities alone IMO. and if there is the option for custom tunes via throwing it on a dyno.If you can find an old Predator, put the grab on it. obd2 flooded the 1996 market.Īs for the jet module.the link in my sig says it all.:clap:Īn 89 tune is great. this was rougly 1996 as 1995 was really the last year of obd1 computers. you actually have to unsolder and resolder most setups i tried it on a spare gm 2.2 OHV ECU.not easy in the least bit, everything is precision.in stepped the age of "reflashing or reprogramming" car ECU, BCM, etc. With obd2, they made things easier to access, but harder to just swap out a chip. the complete data for the new power profile actually was on a pronged computer chip. basically it was like using the sim cards in current cell phones. they did this by octane based tunes, high end power profiles, etc. so you could remove an actual chip/part of the ECU board and replace it with another. but back in the obd1 days the computer boards were easier removed. ![]() ![]() real ECU chips (look into import and euro makes) actually do what the reflash/programmers do. Click to expand.that module jet produces has nothing on any kind of legit programming and reflashing.
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